Land of Father Damien is Natural Wonder and Historical Treasure

The Kalaupapa Overlook is perched atop the tall Molokai seacliffs overlooking the beautiful Kalaupapa Peninsula which is surrounded on three sides by ocean and on the other side by tall cliffs rising thousands of feet.

The Overlook is located in Palaau State Park, about 10 miles from Kaunakakai, and provides panoramic views of the whole north-central coast, an area with a great deal of historical significance as well as natural beauty.

Kauleo Nanahoa, which is located near the Kalaupapa Overlook, is a natural rock formation that is considered a symbol of fertility and is said to help women become pregnant. A petroglyph field is located nearby, offering views of amazing cultural artifacts that were carved into the stones in ancient times.

Kalaupapa Trail makes its way down the steep cliffs from the Kalaupapa Overlook onto the remote peninsula of Kalaupapa, which is accessible only by airplane, foot, or mule.

Mules carry riders down this sometimes very narrow trail which descends about 1,600 feet and includes 26 switchback turns. Visitors to Kalaupapa are required to join an organized tour with either Molokai Mule Rides or Damien Tours.

Kalawao is the settlement on the eastern side of the Kalaupapa Peninsula.  This is where victims of Hansen’s disease (leprosy) were segregated beginning in 1865. In all nearly 9,000 people were quarantined at Kalaupapa.

St. Philomena Church is one of the most moving sites on the Kalaupapa Peninsula.  The church was built by Belgian priest Father Damien (Joseph Damien DeVeuster) who volunteered to minister to the victims of the disease at the Kalaupapa leper colony in 1873 and died there of leprosy in 1889.

Father Damien was originally buried at St. Philomena Church. In 1936 all but his right hand was removed from the site and sent to Belgium.

Damien Monument
In the Molokai Hansen’s Disease settlement is a Celtic Cross that was erected in 1893 as a Memorial to Father Damien, who will soon be declared a saint by the Vatican. Damien’s spirit lives on as one of Hawai‘i’s beloved heroes.  He is referred to as the “Martyr of Molokai.”

Molokai Lighthouse
Located at the tip of the Kalaupapa Peninsula, this historic lighthouse rises 138 feet.  The octagonal tower began its service in 1909, continuing until 1966.

Judd Park
Near the first Hansen’s Disease hospital on Kalaupapa is this lovely park. Great views of the north shore’s spectacular sea cliffs can be seen from Judd Park.

Visiting Molokai and taking a tour to the historic Kalaupapa Peninsula is an incredibly moving experience, not only because of the unbelievable natural beauty you will see there, but also because of the great historical significance of this remote location.

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Great Things To Do On the Friendly Island

Molokai is the fifth largest of the Hawaiian Islands, measuring about 10 miles wide and 38 miles long.  Known as The Friendly Isle, Molokai is located about 9 miles northwest of Maui.  Here are some of the highlights of this amazing Hawaiian Island.

Kalaupapa Peninsula
This isolated peninsula is the land of Father Damien who will soon be declared a saint in a ceremony in Rome.  The whole region is now a National Park of more than 10,000 acres of land.

Kaunakakai
Located on Molokai’s southern coast, Kaunakakai’s main street is lined with false-front stores resembling the Old West.  The three-block long downtown area also features an outdoor market. Nearby is the wharf where boats arrive to bring the island’s supplies.

Molokai Museum and Cultural Center
Located in the restored R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill, the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center was originally constructed in 1878.  Mules and a steam engine ran the original machinery. This is America’s oldest restored sugar mill.

Halawa Valley / Halawa Bay
Located along Molokai’s northeast coast, Halawa is a majestically beautiful valley, and one of the most scenic spots on Molokai. The steep-walled valley is about one-half mile wide and more than three miles long including two nice waterfalls. Where the valley meets the sea the double-scalloped Halawa Bay provides nice swimming and surfing.

Moaula and Hipuapua Falls
Moaula Falls is located at the head of Halawa Valley and plunges 250 feet down the mountain. Just north is Hipuapua Falls, which drops 500 feet.  These falls are accessible by a guided, permitted hike.

St. Joseph’s Church
This church was built by Father Damien in 1876.  Located in Kamalo about 10 miles east of Kaunakakai. St. Joseph’s Church features a bronze statue of Father Damien. Visitors are welcome.

Kamakou Preserve
Supporting various types of native Hawaiian ecosystems, the Kamakou Preserve includes bogs, shrublands, and cloud forests that provide habitat for endangered forest birds and other species. Also in the Preserve is the 4,961-foot peak of Kamakou, which is Molokai’s highest point.

The Dunes of Moomomi
Located along Molokai’s northwest coast, the Dunes of Moomomi support many endangered plants and important cultural sites.

Smith and Bronte Landing
This is the site of the site of the crash landing of the plane of navigator Emily Bronte and airmail pilot Ernest Smith, the first civilians to fly to the Hawaiian Islands from the United States Mainland (Oakland, California). The 1927 flight covered about 2,200 miles in 26 hours and 36 minutes in their 27-foot monoplane named The City of Oakland.

Our Lady of Sorrows Church
Located east of Kaunakakai, this Catholic church was built in 1966. It is a reconstruction of the original church that was built there in 1874 by Father Damien.

Whenever Father Damien was on his way from Kalaupapa to St. Josephs Church, he would say Mass at Our Lady of Sorrows Church.  Father Damien did this even when he was very ill with leprosy (Hansen’s disease).

Papohaku
This beautiful 3-mile long beach along Molokai’s western coast is one of the longest white-sand beaches in Hawaii. Use caution if you visit, however, as there may be very dangerous currents.

Sea Cliffs
Molokai has among the highest sea cliffs in the world, rising more than 3,000 feet almost straight up from the ocean along the island’s northern shore.  One of Hawaii’s highest waterfalls is Molokai’s Kahiwa Falls, plunging more than 1,700 feet down the cliffs.

Ancient Fishponds
Molokai is the site of the largest number of ancient fishponds anywhere in Hawaii.  More than 60 are found just along the eastern shore.

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Molokai is Steeped In Culture and Beauty

I have been quite excited that the beloved Father Damien will soon be declared a Saint, and so I thought I would visit the island where he helped so many people, and indeed gave his own life so that others could be more comfortable in their time of need.

After checking into  a great Molokai Vacation Rental near the main town of Kaunakakai on the south coast I took a walk down the town’s main street, Ala Malama Street.  It is quite charming with many false-front stores that reminded me of the Old West.

Nearby is the town’s wharf where the Molokai Ferry and barges bring the Molokai people food and other products, and also a steady stream of tourists.

Royal Coconut Grove and Church Row

Also check out the many hundreds of coconut palms along the coast.  These coconut palms were planted in 1860 by King Kamehameha V, and are now known as Kapuāiwa Royal Coconut Grove. Church Row is on the other side of the highway, with several places of worship side by side.

Ancient Fishponds

I first headed east from Kaunakakai, and after about three miles I came to One-ali‘i Beach Park where I enjoyed seeing the two memorials commemorating Japanese immigrants.

Heading to the southeast part of the island I soon came to the spectacular valley of Hālawa. Moloka‘i has the largest concentration of ancient fishponds in the Hawaiian Islands along the southeast coast.  Some of these beautiful fishponds have been restored to their former glory.

Hālawa Valley

The steep-walled Hālawa Valley is one of the most scenic spots on Moloka‘i.  The valley is about 3½ miles deep and ½-mile wide with two prominent waterfalls.

Moa‘ula Falls at the head of the valley plunges about 250 feet down the mountain, and just north is Hīpuapua Falls cascading 500 feet down the mountain.

Hālawa Bay is nice for swimming, particularly on the south side of the bay which is more protected from the open sea.

St. Joseph’s Church

To the east of Kaunakakai I visted St. Joseph’s Church in Kamalō. This church was built by Father Damien in 1876, and a bronze statue of the benevolent priest is on display outside of the church.

Smith and Bronte Landing

The next place I visited was the Smith and Bronte Landing on the makai (seaward) side of the road just after Mile Marker 11.  There is a sign marking the site of the crash landing of the plane of navigator Emily Bronte and airmail pilot Ernest Smith. They were the first civilians to fly to Hawaii from the United States Mainland, covering the 2,200 miles in 26 hours.

Smith and Bronte wanted to fly to Honolulu but ran out of fuel and so they had to crash land their 27-foot plane, The City of Oakland, on Moloka‘i.

Our Lady of Sorrows Church

East of Kaunakakai is Our Lady of Sorrows Church.  This Catholic church was built in 1966, reconstructing the original church that had been built there in 1874 by Father Damien.

When Father Damien was on his way from the Hansen’s disease (leprosy) colony at Kalaupapa to St. Josephs Church he would say Mass at Our Lady of Sorrows Church.  Father Damien did this even when he was very ill with the disease.

Next I went for a swim at Waialua Beach (also called Twenty-Mile Beach), which is near the 20 Mile Marker.  I also did some nice snokeling and enjoyed watching the kids surfing at the nearby surf break and also seeing the offshore islet of Mokuho‘oniki, a seabird sanctuary.  The best view of Mokuho‘oniki is from near Mile Marker 24.

Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation

Just northwest of Kaunakakai is the Molokai Coffee Plantation.  Check out the great store there where many artisans sell their wares.  They have a great self-guided tour that gets you to ponder the history of coffe and also introduces you to the inner workings of the plantation.

Pālā‘au State Park and the Kalaupapa Overlook
About 10 miles from Kaunakakai and just past the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center is Pālā‘au State Park.  At an elevation of about 1,000 feet, the park has a short trail that leads to, dare I say, a renown phallic rock called Ka-ule-o-Nānāhoa. This rock, according to legend, increases the fertility of women.

A short walk through a pine forest leads to the Kalaupapa Overlook with wonderful views of the town of Kalaupapa on the Kalaupapa Peninsula far below.  This is also where the trail down to Kalaupapa begins.

Kalaupapa – Where Father Damien Did His Good Works

Kalaupapa National Historic Park is accessible by hiking down the trail or riding a mule, or by boat or plane.

On the island’s north-central coast, Kalaupapa Peninsula is surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on three sides and the other side is steep cliffs rising up thousands of feet.

Mule ride tours down into Kalaupapa from Pālā‘au State Park are offered by Moloka‘i Mule Rides and Damien Tours, providing guided trips down the switchback trail into Kalaupapa from Pālā‘au State Park.  The remote and largely inaccessible valley was the site of a Hansen’s disease (leprosy) colony beginning in 1865 – in all some 9,000 people were quarantined there.

In 1873 is when the Belgian priest known as Father Damien (Joseph Damien DeVeuster) first volunteered to help the victims of the dreaded disease. Father Damien then served the residents of Kalaupapa until he he died there of Hansen’s disease 16 years later.

Pāpōhaku

After that wonderful journey into Hawaii’s history I visited Pāpōhaku where a 3-mile long beach – one of Hawaii’s longest, stretches along the western coast.

Dunes of Mo‘omomi

Next I visted the dunes of Mo‘omomi on the northwest coast.  This is a rare coastal sand dune system where many endangered plant species thrive.  It is also an important Hawaiian cultural area and a nesting site for honu, or sea turtles.  Hikes here are guided by the Nature Conservancy.

Well, that was a whirlwind visit of Molokai, one of the most beautiful Hawaiian Islands and the site of the good works of Father Damien who did so much for the people of Hawaii. I am going to spend a few more days relaxing and thinking about all of these great sights I have seen on this pristine and culturally enlightening Hawaiian Island.

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